The Ree Hotel, a new 4 Star deluxe category hotel in Siem Reap-Angkor officially opened this month (Nov 08).

The Ree Hotel (formerly the Preah Khan Hotel) has been fully refurbished and is situated on the main road between Siem Reap town and Siem Reap / Angkor International Airport. The Ree Hotel represents the very best in contemporary Cambodian accommodation, blending unique Cambodian traditions of hospitality with the finest modern amenities. The hotel has 128 elegant and luxurious guest rooms and suites and is targeted towards today’s discerning international clientele’s expectations. Professional levels of service and a wide range of facilities make the Ree Hotel a good choice for travellers looking to explore the unforgettable ancient ruins of Angkor from a refined haven of international standard.

For very competitive rates at the Ree Hotel contact: info@asia-adventures.com

www.reehotel.com

Halal dining is relatively easy to find in Phnom Penh, and even easier if you know what you’re looking for. There are a number of Pakistani establishments in town as well as a smattering of Malaysian outlets, although not all are specifically halal. Some Nepalese and Indian restaurants get in on the game as well. Bites (St 107), Lumbini (St 214), Indian Curry Pot (lakeside) and Mount Everest (Sihanouk Bvd) all advertise halal menus, as do numerous others.

A brief explanation, Halal translates pretty much as ‘permitted’, while its opposite is haraam, ‘forbidden. It not only lists what you can eat, but also refers to the way in which animals are slaughtered – this must be done in the name of Allah.

With a well-established local Muslim population here in Cambodia (the Cham), halal markets are easily found if you know where to look. A a good place to start is Russey Keo, which is not too surprising, as a large number of Cham live in that part of the city.

For Halal torus of Cambodia contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (May 08)

From Nov 23-28 08 Siem Reap’s night sky will be illuminated with world class photography at the fourth consecutive Angkor Photography Festival 2008.

The Angkor Photography Festival aims to create and develop artistic, educational and humanitarian photographic projects from South East Asian countries in 3 ways: i) the Angkor Photography Festival, ii) photo workshops and iii) an outreach program.

Free outdoor night screenings will project audiovisual presentations or celebrated regional and international photographers during the 6 day festival. Setting itself apart from other festivals, the Angkor Photography Festival focuses much of its energy on education, as famous photographers nurture the talent of emerging Asian snappers during a series of free workshops hosted by Gary Knight and Philip Blenkinsop. In addition, prints donated by some fo the world’s most famous photographers will be auctioned to help raise funds for a local education centre.

To arrange a tour of Cambodia during the Angkor Photography Festival contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Dengue Fever, the Cambodian rock band from Loa Angeles, have no time to rest after completing 30 gigs in Europe this summer.

In November they will make their British television debut on the influential music program, Later With Jools Holland, while headlining their first UK tour. The six member band take their inspiration and style from 1960s Cambodian pop, in particular Sinn Sisamouth and Ros Sereysothea, and mix it with psychedelic rock. Some songs are written in English and then translated into Khmer. Chhom Nimol is the band’s Cambodian songstress.

Edited from: The Globe (Nov 08)

This year’s Water Festival (Nov 10-13 2008) promises to be bigger and better than the last, with more boats, spectacles, spectators and facilities!

The Government is making every effort to attract more international visitors and make 2008 the most exuberant Water Festival yet. Phnom Penh’s main street’s and parks will be decorated with coloured lights and a larger spectator area is being provided for those wanting to watch the vibrant boat races.

To enjoy the Water Festival contact: info@asia-adventures.com

They travel from all over Cambodia in the hope that first world medical miracles can change a life and bring a smile to children’s faces.

Visiting one of the medical missions it is hard not to be stunned. First the location, the Khmer-Soviet Friendship hospital; it’s not exactly a five-star health centre. Second, the kids, It is said that cleft lips and palates occur in 1/500-1/750 births worldwide. Yet when one of these kids smiles, you see past the cleft lip or palate and into to their hearts. It is hard not to be moved. Third, the families. In some cases they make long and arduous journeys from all over Cambodia. Leaving everything they had ever known to go to the big city, families sleep in hallways, up to 15 of them sleeping in a small room. Hammocks are slung between beds and halls as parents watch over their children in the hope they would be given a chance at a better life.

The logistical, organisation and support behind Operation Smile is impressive: international and Cambodian medical, support staff and volunteers all working together to help these children. Operation Smile was founded by Dr William and Kathleen Magee in 1982 with a mission of medical volunteers to the Philippines. Since that time, more than 115,000 children have been treated and Operation Smile now supports medical missions in more than 26 countries. Its first mission in Cambodia took place in 2002 in Phnom Penh and a year later Operation Smile Cambodia (OSC) was formed. To date, about 1,000 children have received corrective surgery in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Battambang.

Last March the mission was held in Phnom Penh, where more than 200 patients were screened and approximately 130 treated over five days. This was only possible with the assistance of 49 international medical volunteers from nine countries, 29 Cambodian medical volunteers, international and local support volunteers, OSC staff, directors and donors, support from Operation Smile worldwide and the Cambodian families who trusted OSC with their children. OSC is beautiful in its simplicity and focus. It brings together local and international resources to provide a straightforward procedure that changes a child’s life. From a medical perspective, people with cleft lips and palates often have difficulty eating, talking, hearing and breathing. From a social perspective, repairing a cleft can lead to greater acceptance and confidence.

If you want to learn more about Operation Smile, its website is www.operationsmile.org.

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (July 08)

The people of Mondolkiri Province, Cambodia, rely on a number of non-timber forest products (NTFPs) for their livelihoods and daily routines, and the sweetest of all NTFPs, of course, is honey. A new practice of sustainable collection has been introduced, as well as education on forest protection.

The traditional way of collecting honey from the forest was to climb a tree and smoke the bees out of the hive. This drove the honeybees away and the entire hive would be collected and brought out of the forest. However, this method only allows for one-time collection.

“WWF facilitated a training on sustainable honey harvesting and proper honey handling. WWF also helped the honey hunters organize themselves into an association.” said Amy Maling, Community Extension Team Technical Advisor, WWF’s Eastern Plains Landscape Project. The honey hunters have learned to only collect a portion of the hive containing honey, leaving the queen to rebuild her fortress. This method allows hunters to harvest from one hive two or three times in the three-month honey season from March to May. This also allows the honeycombs to fully mature producing a higher quality product. When the hives stay, so do the bees. In the past, bees would leave the area after their hives had been completely collected, forcing the honey hunters further into the forest, and sometimes even causing the entire village to move. When the bees stay, the village is able to have a more stable location to develop.

The new buzz around the community is there is a market for sustainable honey. The honey association has started marketing their products. WWF, in partnership with other organizations, have assisted in developing the brand, label and packaging of the honey products. “Mondolkiri Wild Honey” is now being marketed in different shops in Mondulkiri Province and in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.

For tours to Mondolkiri contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: WWF The Mekong Messenger (22-9-08)

A fragrant and spicy dish, the delicate flavours of the prawns combine perfectly with the fresh lemongrass and chillies.

INGREDIENTS (serves 2 people)
- 10 fresh prawns (peeled)
- 4 stems of fresh lemongrass (finely chopped)
- 2 fresh red chillies (finely sliced)
- 5 cloves of garlic (finely sliced)
- 3 kaffir lime leaves (chopped)
- 1.5 tablespoon fish sauce
- 3 teaspoon sugar
- 0.5 teaspoon Knorr flavouring
- 1 tablespoon lime juice

GARNISH
- Fresh mint leaves
- 1 fresh red chilli (sliced lengthwise)
- Lettuce leaves

PREPARATION
- Mix together the fish sauce, sugar, Knorr flavouring and lime juice. Stir well and leave to sit for 5 minutes.
- Bring a pot of water to boil then remove from the heat and add the prawns. Let the prawns sit in the hot water for one minute.
- Add the garlic, chillies, lemongrass, kaffir leaves, the cooked prawns to the sauce. Mix well to ensure the prawns are evenly coated.
- Serve on a bed of lettuce and garnish with mint leaves and sliced red chillies.
NOTE: for a less spicy dish remove the seeds from the red chillies.

Brought to you courtesy of Bojangles Restaurant, 269 The Riverside (next to ANZ Royal Bank), Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

As the sun begins to set over Phnom Penh many traders set up their stalls to sell a variety of fresh and cooked food. If you want to try out some street food and are looking for something a bit more Cambodian than stir-fried noodles you could try Cambodia’s popular snack of ‘pong tea koun’ (fertilised duck egg with foetus!). Many believe the foetus eggs are a source of energy, and the reason why a lot of Khmers eat them after a hard day’s work. Pong tea koun are popularly believed to be an aphrodisiac and considered a high-protien, hearty snack. Usually pong tea koun are boiled in hot water or in oil and eaten with pepper, salt and slices of lime or sewwt-sour chilli sauce with garlic.

Edited from: Asia Life (Oct 08)

It seems like there’s a new spa opening every week in Phnom Penh. Well perhaps not quite that frequently, but the past twelve months has seen huge growth in the industry.

Just a few years ago, if you wanted anything more than a simple head or neck massage you would have to visit the spa at one of the city’s finer hotels, and pay a suitably luxurious price for the pleasure. The ongoing restoration of the city, coupled with an influx of more affluent residents and visitors, has brought an appetite for improving standards across the board. So it’s perhaps not surprising that the range of spa services available here in Phnom Penh has also grown dramatically, with prices starting at just $6 an hour for a basic massage up to $50 an hour and beyond for a more sophisticated experience. The list of available treatments seems as extensive here in Phnom Penh as anywhere, popular options ranging from aromatherapy and hot stone massages to esoteric therapies from many different countries including India, Sweden, Egypt, China and Indonesia.

Two popular treatments here are the traditional Thai massage, and its cousin the traditional Khmer massage. Thai massage (known as Nuad Bo’ran in Thai) has its roots in the Ayurvedic system originating from India, and was introduced by missionary monks over two thousand years ago, initially to help soothe the muscles of workers from the rice fields. The masseur uses his or her thumbs, palms, forearms, elbows, knees and feet to work along energy meridians called Sen lines, thereby increasing the flow of energy and helping the body to detoxify, balance and heal. The treatment is one of the four cornerstones of Thai medicine, the others being herbal remedies, nutritional medicines and spiritual practices.

Similarly, Khmer massage forms one of the five pillars of traditional Khmer medicine, the others consisting of: medication, treatment by magic, therapeutic burning and rubefaction. The latter two treatments are often referred to as “cupping” and “coining”, involving the use of coins and/or a flame under a glass to stimulate blood flow, draw toxins out from the skin and promote good health. They are traditionally used to help balance “khyol” or “wind illness” – coining is known as “khos khyol” or “rubbing the wind” whereas cupping is known as “choob khyol” or “sucking the wind.” A third variant, “chab khyol” involves using the first and second fingers to pull upward hard on the skin. These three treatments leave red welts and bruises on the skin, however, and while you often see such patterns on local people, the techniques have perhaps unsurprisingly found little popularity with Westerners. Khmer massages offered at spas around Phnom Penh rarely use these treatments, preferring an approach more akin to the Thai practice.

Whatever your requirements, you’ll find that Phnom Penh will have something to suit you. Many hotels also offer massage services so if you really want to relax you don’t even have to leave the comfort of your room.

Edited from Cambodia Pocket Guide (July 08)

Get ready for the Pursat River Run!

On Sunday October 26th 2008, Pursat Province is pleased to host its second annual 5k and 10k road races. The event follows last year’s inaugural run which attracted nearly 300 runners. This year more than 500 are expected

The event is organised by the Pursat Department of Education Youth and Sport. Because it’s locally organised in the province, don’t expect chip timing or a goody bag. We can however, promise you a warm welcome, a fun day out, and lots of community spirit in a beautiful but rarely visited part of Cambodia!

Entry for the race (either 5k or 10k) is $15 for expatriates and $1 for Cambodians. This includes a T-shirt for all runners. There will be cash prizes and trophies for the winners. All money raised will buy sports equipment for Pursat schools.

There will also be disabled athletes in the race, supported by a local NGO in Pursat, Disability Development Services Pursat (DDSP). If you’d like to sponsor one of them, or if you’d like more information about the race, please get in touch with Steve Harknett at sharknett@hotmail.com.

The National Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia is going through a major overhaul of its exhibition rooms.

Fewer than two years short of the museum’s 90th anniversary, walls are being repainted, sections rearranged by themes and periods, and sculptures repositioned to create viewpoints enhancing them. Moreover, display cases are being cleaned up, labels redesigned and information panels added in 2 or 3 languages, Khmer, English, French. The overhaul is being done so that visitors will better understand and appreciate the artefacts in the context of Cambodia’s historical period.

Edited from Cambodia Daily (13-10-08)

Traditional hand-painted signs live on in the Kingdom as one artist works against time and technology to preserve the beauty of the old ways.

The tradition once thrived and can still be spotted occasionally in the countryside and in some areas of Phnom Penh, but the humble hand-painted shop sign may soon be a thing of the past as Cambodia becomes increasingly accustomed to Western advertising techniques. Some may consider hand-painted signs, known in Khmer as chook tip (‘perfect painting’), unsophisticated, but they certainly do get the message across.

They still hang in back streets, alleys and lanes advertising a variety of wares and services, from long-lashed brides and freshly shaven young men to motorbike repair shops, photocopy facilities and pool halls. The retro-charm of these quintessentially Cambodian hand-painted signs may soon disappear-a victim of the digital age’s preference for detailed airbrush techniques and computer-generated graphics. Hand-painted signs are now more expensive than machine-painted signs, but some customers still the traditional hand-painted signs.

To see examples of this traditional art form, and maybe take one home as a unique souvenir, when in Phnom Penh visit Bojangles Restaurant on the riverside (next to ANZ Bank) where you will find not only a great display of traditional shop signs, but also tasty, cheap Khmer and Western food.

Edited from: Phnom Penh Post (26-9-08)

This government designated wildlife reserve is the largest of its kind in South East Asia, and Prek Toal is a unique haven for birds from all over the region. Wild birds like kingfishers, the Indian cormorant, spot-billed pelican and the stately adjutant can be spotted fishing and resting on open waters. Apart from the birds, there are also the fascinating traditional floating villages. The villages have been on the lake for generations and have changed little in this time. Watch floating market boats go from house to house selling their wares, and see fisherman hauling in the day’s catch. The best time to visit is from October to March, when the water level of the Tonle Sap is at its highest and when wild birds return to the area to mate. To see the birds in their natural habitat a visit to one of the ranger spotting towers is a must. These simple but sturdy towers are well hidden in tress and provide uninterrupted views of the birds.

To arrange a visit to Prek Toal email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Sarika (Oct - Dec 08)

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. Cambodia is home to a huge variety of animals, but unfortunately many species are endangered due ti illegal wildlife trade and loss of habitat. Phnom Tamao was established to provide care for sick creatures including Sambor deer, macaques, and tigers. The centre is set in 2,500 hectares of protected forest, and houses over 80 species and 1,200 animals. A visit makes for a fascinating and highly informative day – a must for anyone looking to discover the natural beauty of Cambodia. You’ll also get to watch the elephants taking their daily bath amid plenty of trumpeting and boisterous play. Phnom Tamao is located 40km south of Phnom Penh.

To arrange a visit to Phnom Tamao email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited From: Sarika Oct - Dec 08

The Knai Bang Chatt Sailing Club in Kep is having a New Season opening party on October 11th 2008. As well as a delicious seafood barbeque a DJ will be spinning tunes as the sun sets. All welcome!

For relaxing times in Kep email: info@asia-adventures.com

Knai Bang Chatt Sailing Club

To read a recent Phnom Penh Post article about ecotourism in Cambodia featuring an interview with Asia Adventures Managing Director follow this link:

Ecotourism Cambodia link

To arrange a ecotourism holiday in Cambodia email info@asia-adventures.com

Facing competition from its regional neighbours in the advertising stakes, such as ‘Malaysia Truly Asia;, ‘Incredible India’, ‘Amazing Thailand’, The Cambodian Ministry of Tourism has launched its first ever large scale international advertising campaign, ‘Cambodia, Kingdom of Wonder’. Adverts have started appearing on CNN International highlighting Cambodia’s beaches, natural environment, and historic temples. The advert features Angkor Wat alongside images of ecotourism sites, Apsara dancers, beaches and shadow puppets. The aim is expand Cambodia’s appeal beyond just the Angkor temples, and to show that Cambodia has a lot more to offer.

The Cambodian government has signed a direct-flight agreement with Qatar that will allow planes leaving Qatar to fly direct to Cambodia without having to go via Thailand, Singapore or Malaysia as they do at present. This will reduce flying time and inconvenience. A similar agreement is expected to be signed with Kuwait soon. However, the date for the commencement fo direct flights from these countries has not yet been announced.

For the past few months Phnom Penh has had its own night market located close to the riverside (between streets 106 & 108), where you can shop to your heart’s content.

The market is open from Friday to Sunday, 6pm to midnight, and features about 130 stalls. Products on offer include silk and silk products, clothing and footwear, paintings, stone carvings and wooden handcrafts, jewellery, food and drink, furniture, and a range of curios and souvenirs to remind you of your time in Cambodia.

In keeping with the market’s slogan, ‘One Village One Product’, the majority of items are made by craftsmen and women from various far-flung Cambodian provinces, However, there are also mass produced Vietnamese and Thai goods masquerading as local fare.

As with any Khmer market be prepared to haggle over the price of everything, its surprising how quickly the cost can tumble…

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide After Dark (Aug – Oct 08)

On November 28, 2008, history will be made as the World Premiere of Where Elephants Weep takes centre stage at Phnom Penh’s Chenla Theatre. It will be the first time in the Kingdom’s history that a contemporary opera of this scale and calibre has been staged, and promises to be the most inspiring event in Cambodia’s cultural calendar this year.

Where Elephants Weep is a modern take on a traditional Khmer love story, and fuses ancient melodies with elements of hip-hop and rock, performed by professional musicians and actors from around the world. Commissioned by Cambodian Living Arts (generating arts renewal since 1998), a project of World Education, Where Elephants Weep is a creative collaboration between acclaimed Cambodian composer Him Sophy, story writer Catherine Filloux, and executive producer, John Burt.

If you would like to include a visit to the groundbreaking opera when visiting Phnom Penh from 28 Nov 08 to 7 Dec 08 please contact: info@asia-adventures.com

For more information visit: www.whereelephantsweep.net

Biodiversity is the name of the game along what has been called the Mekong Trail on the Laos border with Cambodia. Rare dolphins and fine cuisine make this a red-letter must for every explorer’s itinerary if you want to take in the sights along the border. With the opening of the new immigration post at Trapaing Krial on the Laos border, travelling overland from the 4,000 islands region of southern Laos to Kratie has become a lot easier. Cambodian visas are now available at the border (reportedly Laos visas will be available soon) and the opening of the last stretch of highway has transformed the journey from a body-punishing run to a smooth and easy ride.

Although the trip can now be made in under three hours, what’s the rush? There are numerous sites and adventures to be found along this striking stretch of the Mekong River. Dubbed a ‘biodiversity hot spot’ due to the wealth of unique plant and animal life it supports, 36 threatened species can be found in this stretch of the river, many unique to the area.

Longtail boats for up to four passengers can be arranged from Ou Svay and en-route there are also some interesting islands, some of which are deserted so you can relax and enjoy a picnic or a quick dip. On the larger islands you’ll be welcomed by villagers who are always excited to see a western face.

Plans to develop eco-tourism in the area include houseboat stays, home stays, horse-drawn cart rides and kayaking. It is also possible to cycle all the way from the border to Kratie. Following a track that will take you along the river and into some great villages. From Kratie, a short boat ride will take you to Koh Trong, one of the largest islands in the region. It has a cool, tree-lined 14km bicycle track, but to date you’ll need to bring your own bicycle or hire one from Kratie.

Home stays are available in Ou Svay, which is a great little town to meet the people, practice your Khmer and enjoy the local nightlife. For groups, some local pagodas can organise mattresses and mosquito nets. Between Stung Treng and Kratie in Sambor, the 100-pillar pagoda is a truly great place to spend the night. They also cook up an excellent Khmer feast, so be sure to hang around for dinner.

Kratie has a wider range of accommodation with the Oudom Sambath hotel popular among visitors for its balcony overlooking the Mekong. Sunsets in Kratie are always stunning, so if you book a room here take a few beers up to the balcony and enjoy the view. There are also some great local and western bars and restaurants in town. So if you’re heading through to Stung Treng, be sure to get off the highway and experience life along the Mekong.

For more information on tours along the northern Mekong to the Laos border contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (June – Aug 08)

Cambodia is an impoverished country in search of a future, and the volunteers from the first world have a vital role to play. Volunteering in Siem Reap is a worthwhile way to spend your time in Cambodia that will definitely make this your trip of a lifetime. The tourist draw for Siem Reap has long been the Angkor Wat complex of temples. But travellers seeking an alternative have also taken to volunteer work in an effort to improve the lives of rural Cambodians.

Make A Difference For Good (MAD) is a not-for-profit foundation that gives tourists a chance to experience volunteering, even if it’s only for a few days. On the outskirts of Siem Reap, volunteers pay for accommodation and an administration fee for the opportunity to work in remote and semi-remote communities digging water bore holes, farming and building lavatories. There are also small Khmer-run schools looking for teachers.

Most nights students at Jay’s School pore over their notes with Jay Lim Chea, its director and teacher. By day he works for an NGO and is constantly looking for volunteers who’ll stay longer than a couple of weeks and teach English four nights a week.

Several pagodas around town also take on English speakers to assist the monks in teaching adults and children. The Life and Hope Association at the Wat Damnak commune on Wat Bo Road has a sewing centre and a food education project for orphans in nearby communities. The Angkor Hospital for Children takes about 200 volunteers a year from the more than 1,000 applicants. People are taken on to fill specific jobs, whether that is building a shed or working in the biotechnology lab.

There are several environmental NGOs keen to hear from volunteers, though several prefer people with expertise.

For more information on volunteering in Cambodia contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (June – Aug 08)

On 10 Sept 08 the Cambodian Sokha Hotel Group broke ground on a 500 room five star resort on Sihanoukville’s Ochheuteal beach. No date has yet been given for its completion, and it is rumoured the development will also include an 18 hole international standard links golf course. The Sokha Hotel has previously come in for criticism from its current Sihanoukville Sokha Beach hotel for ‘privatising’ the beach, a claim which it denies. For the new development, despite being awarded a government concession granting the hotel rights over the beach, a hotel spokesperson states that Ochheuteal beach will remain open to the public.

Although numerous Khmer temples built before the 13th Century can be found throughout Cambodia, no vestige of a Royal Palace had ever been found outside the walled city of Angkor Thom. None that is, until now. After 5 years of excavation at Roluos on the outskirts of Siem Reap, an archaeological team has discovered traces of large and lavish wooden buildings as well as fragments of Chinese and Middle Eastern ceramics. The team believe it has discovered the Royal palace of Jayavarman II.

‘The quality of construction of those buildings is truly exceptional .. far above the quality of ordinary houses found elsewhere’, says one of the archaeologists. The ceramic fragments found at the site show that the building was occupied by social elites with the means to own ceramics from either Iran or Iraq., and researchers believe these could only have been the king and his court at that time.

Located about 15km south-east of Abgkor, Roluos was the capital of Jayavarman II who is considered the first king of the Angkorian era.

To explore the Roluos temples email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: The Cambodia Daily Weekend (6-7 Sept 08)

Born in Cambodia in 1933, it would be difficult to even summarize all the events Svay Ken has lived through, but fortunately the prolific painter is busily creating an extensive visual autobiography on a daily basis. Unlike most artists, he began painting at the age of 60, with no formal training. His prior roles included work as a simple laborer, a farmer and a long stint at Raffles Le Royal Hotel beginning in the 1980s.

In those days the hotel was a central meeting point for the small overseas aid community. After being told he was of retirement age, Svay Ken looked for a new way to support his family, and settled on painting. ‘It was difficult at the beginning’, he recollects. ‘I didn’t know how to mix the colors’. Foreign friends encouraged his new works that didn’t depict the standard images of Angkor Wat or apsara dancers. He soon opened up a small gallery near Wat Phnom on ‘French Street’ that remains to this day - his family running a pharmacy from one part of the shop, and Svay Ken selling paintings from the other.

Svay Ken’s subject matter is the raw fabric of daily Cambodian life, almost always drawn from memory: objects, people, events. Untrained artists are often considered creators of ‘naïve art’, but these works are painted by a man fully grounded in the world, who has survived years of war, and raised a family.

His working-class work ethic produced numerous paintings, which found a growing market for his efforts. With the help of Reyum Gallery, he began to gain national and international recognition, eventually representing Cambodia in the 1999 Fukuoka Art Trienniale. After his wife Tith Yun passed away, he spent a year creating 128 images depicting their years together from 1941 to 2000.

The resulting exhibition ‘Painted Stories’, was highly praised and also collected as a book. Numerous group and solo exhibitions have showcased his work, including a feature role in 2005s ground-breaking Visual Arts Open. Another memorial collection followed with ‘A Good Friend Is Hard To Find’, a tribute to Reyum’s Ingrid Muan.

No stranger to storytelling, the artist has years of history to draw upon, and recounted serving in the nationalist ‘Chivapol’ troops when then Prince Sihanouk (now King Father) was working to secure Cambodia’s independence from the French. An exhibition recounting this time ‘Memories - 1938 to 1954′ was featured in 2006 at The Royal, bringing the creator full circle from staff worker to honored guest.

As prolific as ever, the septuagenarian artist shows no signs of slowing down and is working on a new series of paintings reflecting his opinions regarding modern-day Cambodia.

When visiting Phnom Penh call into his ‘Khmer Art Gallery’ to see his work for yourself, 17Eo, Street 47 (Rue de France), near Wat Phnom – 016 818034 / 092 549089

Edited from; Expat Advisory (4-9-08)

Greens and blues abound in Ratanakiri, which offers forests and lakes that are home to a rural lifestyle that delights the eye. The scenery here differs greatly from the rest of Cambodia. Red dirt, lush forests and blue lakes make it a beautiful and colourful province to visit and numerous hilltribes add cultural diversity.

The banks of Kansaing Lake within the provincial capital of Banlung is a great place to watch local fishermen. In town you can wander through the market and see the many products from the forest on sale, but if you plan to buy, please be aware that many of the plant and animal species hunted in the area are endangered, so don’t support the hunter/scavengers by buying skins or herbal medicines. Among the photogenic sights on the street are the mounds of sorted and drying produce. Cashew nuts and rubber are two of the biggest industries in the province but, unfortunately for the environment and local hilltribes, so are logging and mining.

Out of town, nature’s bounty is on show. Yeak Loam is a circular volcanic lake 5km from Banlung. The water is crystal clear, deep and beautiful to swim in. There is also a 2.5km track around the lake and en route you will find local crafts on offer, some great swimming spots and amazing views. Waterfalls are plentiful and many can be explored on a half-day trip. The highest in the area is Ou’Sensranoh at 18 metres. Cha Ung is not only a great place for a dip but also offers a vantage point behind the falls to see the world from a different angle.

Forty five kilometres from the capital is Virachay National Park, a great place for trekking and birdwatching. Along the way you are likely to see people from various hilltribes, often with baskets strapped to their backs as they collect produce from the forest. Many of them still wear traditional costumes. Brau women often have tattooed faces and Krung women generally wear only a sarong and nothing on their upper bodies. It is also common to see men and women smoking pipes. The men will often be seen along the roadside carrying crossbows and arrows they use for hunting. They gather poison from colourful forest frogs that excrete the liquid from their skins; the hunter simply wipes the arrow tip across the frog’s back.

If you get the chance, be sure to try the local wine. Brewed in a large clay jug, the concoction comprises rice husks and herbs. The mix is packed down tight and bamboo straws are pushed to the bottom. Water is added and the mix is then left to ferment; the longer you leave it, the stronger it gets. Add too much water, though, and the alcohol loses its strength. Traditionally the jugs are large and the wine is drunk through bamboo pipes, but this is not for the faint-hearted.

For more information on tours to Ratanakiri email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (Aug-Oct 08)

Chi Pat is a remote village in the Cardamom Protected Forest, with no running water and electricity is by generator only. But this is not stopping Wildlife Alliance (formerly Wild Aid) from bringing ecologically conscious tourists to the village as part of a new eco-tourism program.

The ecotourism project is in its infancy, but the Wildlife Alliance has been in the area for some time, involved in law enforcement in the Cardamom Mountains, working directly with the park rangers who patrol the region busting poachers and illegal loggers.

So in terms of protecting the forest the rangers are the stick and eco-tourism the carrot. Wildlife Alliance believes that if they want locals to stop logging and hunting they must be given an alternative income, and ecotourism can provide that alternative income as well as being a tool for long-term conservation to reduce pressure on the forest.

So what is there to do? For starters Chi Pat is remote, after a 4 hour road journey from Phnom Penh (Cambodia’s Capital) you reach a river where you have to board a traditional wooden boat and take a 3 hour journey upstream. On arrival in the small village of Chi Pat in the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains you will see a dirt road, a couple of restaurants, lots of cows, dogs and chickens wandering around, and a chorus of ‘Hellos’ from the inquisitive children. In terms of accommodation there are currently 4 guesthouses as well as a few homestay options.

There are various natural and cultural sites in the surrounding forest such as waterfalls, ancient burial jars, bat caves, and wildlife such as elephants, hornbills, flying squirrels etc. To explore there are a series of treks or mountain bike tours you can take, or more leisurely explore the rivers tributaries by boat. The tours vary from day trips to multi-overnight trips camping out in the forest.

The project does not officially begin until early 2009, however if you would like to be one of the areas eco-tourist pioneers contact Asia Adventures who can arrange a tour for you: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: The Cambodia Daily Weekend (Aug 30-31 08)

The performing arts NGO, Phare Ponleu Selpak, recently erected Cambodia’s first proper circus tent / big top.

Phare Ponleu Selpak, which is based in Battambang, focuses on the poor / disenfranchised youth in the area and offers them a normal education as well as training in the performing arts.

The new Big Top consists of a ring with spectators on three sides and a metal cupola sturdy enough to support trapezes and ropes, and it replaces a 23 year old tent that the circus school had been donated 5 years ago.

Throughout the year public circus events are performed at the school in Battambang. If you would like to attend a circus performance please email: info@asia-adventures.com

On the night of 28 Aug 08 a fight night billed as kickboxing coming home exceeded the wildest of expectations as two Cambodian kickboxers landed the first-ever world titles for Cambodia!

Thailand is often considered as the home of kickboxing, however from carvings on the mighty Angkor temples it can be seen that kickboxing was alive and, well ‘kicking’, before the Siam (former name of Thailand) dynasty came to power.

Both Cambodia fighters were regarded as underdogs as they fought international opposition. However, Meas (The Dragon) Chantha (67kg category) cruised to victory over British fighter Frankie Hudders, while Battambang’s Vorn Viva (75kg category) had a tougher time of it, before eventually coming out on top against his German opponent, Alban Ahmedi.

Although their future earnings potentials are unknown, some decent paydays could await Meas Chantha and Vorn Viva as reward for taking the world titles.

Edited from: The Cambodia Daily (29-8-08)

Helping yourself to a sumptuous meal and good wine is a very satisfying way to lift young people out of the poverty trap.

Skills training is one of the platforms offered to young Cambodians to give them the ability to find and hold down a job in the outside world. It is impossible for anyone visiting this country to ignore the obvious: street children hawking photocopied books, pkar malis (scented flower wristbands), a shoeshine or daily paper; children as young as five years old scavenging for saleable waste on the city rubbish dump at Stung Meanchey.

Pourire un Sourire d’Enfant (PSE) has been making a difference in the lives of disadvantaged Cambodian children for more than 40 years. In that time it has more than fulfilled its ambition to bring a smile to a child’s face where a tear was more common. It has also established itself as a mainstay for the children and families who have endured a life scratching a living from the noxious, vermin-ridden moonscape that is the Stung Meanchey city dump. High-end eating at soup kitchen prices, that’s the basic idea of the Lotus Blanc project set up and run by PSE at its residential school near the dump. That’s where children wait table, work in the kitchen and learn skills that will see them into the service industry and adulthood. At its inception the restaurant’s menus were created by European chefs who flew in once a month to teach the children how to re-create their culinary masterpieces. Today the chefs are Cambodian, the menu is changed every fortnight and the imaginative gastronomic treats are a tasty revelation.

To book a meal at the Lotus Blanc email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Pocket Guide Cambodia (Aug 08)

As you step from the vibrant riverfront of Phnom Penh along the banks of the Tonle Sap river, prepare yourself for a fusion of innovation and tranquillity. As you enter the calming ethereal design of The Quay’se lobby, you immerse yourself in form and comfort. From the start, your stay at this minimalist 16-room hideaway is urbane and relaxed. Consider yourself at home at The Quay.

After pausing a moment to take in your surroundings, you are pleased to see that every area is inviting. Curvaceous Swan chairs, original art works and historic photographs all grace your presence. As you ascend to your suite, you find The Quay’s spaces infused with aromatherapy and accented with lustrous Cambodian silk textiles. Rooms are intention designed, as you soon discover; they are spacious yet intimate. As you settle into yours, enjoy the ease of accessibility with WiFi, laptops and flat screen TV all at your disposal. Or perhaps choose to release the cares of your day with natural spa products while soaking in the undulating bath – the option is yours.
Its design reflects the integration of the elegant and the organic, limestone floors exude a marked timelessness and harmonize with natural handmade carpets. Individually crafted silk panels illuminate serene interiors. The Quay is laidback refinement at its best.

The Quay’s restaurant, Chow, presents you with a menu of delectable Asian-fusion dishes to suit your tastes and desires.

The Quay has an earnest commitment to carbon neutrality. By monitoring and reducing their carbon emissions as well as investing in carbon offsets, The Quay is setting a precedent as one of the first businesses in Cambodia to completely offset its emissions. At The Quay guests have the opportunity to calculate their own carbon footprint and learn more about the system of carbon offsets.

Asia Adventures has very competitive rates at The Quay, for more info email: info@asia-adventures.com

The Mekong Tourism Office has published The Guide to Responsible Tourism in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam to facilitate travel in Indochina.

The book is designed for tourists who want to pick up a copy and go, and for tour operators and travel agents who would like to add responsible travel experiences to their Mekong sub-region itineraries, said Peter Semone, senior advisor to the Mekong Tourism Office based in Bangkok. The 148-page guide is penned by Guy Marris, Nick Ray and Bernie Rosenbloom and edited by Ken Scott, all of them seasoned travellers in the region. It has full contact and booking information for all the recommended activities in the three countries, practical information for travellers, and a list of useful resources and organisations involved with heritage, conservation and responsible tourism.

The book costs US$15 (inclusive of postage) and can be ordered through the Pacific Asia Travel Association. For more information, visit the web site http://mekongtourism.org.

For responsible tourism trips throughout Cambodia email: info@asia-adventures.com

The last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge; mystical auras, folk tales of riches and legends, a land filled with precious stones and a magical mountain. Welcome to Pailin.

Isolated in the hills of western Cambodian and nestled against the Thai border. Pailin was known as the gem city of Cambodia. Pailin was a prosperous town, rich from the extensive gem deposits in the countryside and the extensive logging opportunities. The vast resources made it one of the first cities the Khmer Rouge (KR) attacked. The City of Gems and its precious stones then funded the Khmer Rouge war machine and later it became a stronghold retreat in the face of the marauding Vietnamese and post Pol Pot era forces.

Pailin has always had magical connotations in Khmer culture. There are folktales surrounding Phnom Yat (Yat Mountain) and many Cambodians wish to possess a legendary gemstone from the area. Carefully placing a gem into a band of gold, Mr. Nareth reflects that many believe digging for gems is easy and makes a man rich. ‘It is’, he remarks, ‘as difficult [to find gems] as finding a sewing needle in the sea’. ‘We used to dig by hand’, he continues, ‘and it was very difficult. Sometimes we went down to 2-4 meters, using just our hands’.

The nearby mountain, Phnom Yat , figures strongly in Cambodian folklore. A magical old lady, named Yeah Yat, lived as a hermit in the mountains. She strongly disapproved of the people hunting animals in the forests around Pailin and promised the villagers great rewards if they would stop butchering the animals. At a stream on Phnom Yat, an otter played. When the people arrived, the otter swam up and opened his mouth. Inside was a stunning bounty of gems. It is now a superstition to go to the shrine of Yiey Yat and ask her for prosperity and good fortune. The shrine is near the top of the hill, along with a statue of the magical otter.

To visit Pailin please email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Life (Aug 08)

Escaping a terrible fate, a beautiful woman plunges into a swirling river and a myth is born. But the reducing number of dolphins is threatening the time honoured special relationship between the locals and the animals.

The youth turns off the motor and maneuvers deftly with a wooden oar. Locals mingle on the riverside, playing volleyball and sipping fresh coconut. It’s a peaceful scene, interrupted now and again by the distinctive puff of spray as an intriguing bluish brown Irrawaddy dolphin surfaces for air. In North Eastern Cambodia, on the edge of the magnificent Mekong, lies the town of Kratie. It is known for its attractive scenery, lush green villages and the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. The Mekong flows slowly through 148 km of Kratie province and life surrounding it echoes its pace. The locals are laidback to the point of inertia, providing a gentle charm to the tourists who come to and from Lao. Visitors often stop at Kratie for a chance to glimpse the unique Irrawaddy dolphins only found in SE Asia.

The best place to see the Irrawaddy dolphin’s is15 km from Kratie town centre, in the riverside fishing village of Kampi. They used to be numerous but numbers diminished during the brutal years of Cambodia’s involvement in the Indochina. The number of dolphins is estimated to be at under a 100 when older locals can recall a time of thousands. The Khmers have a reverence and respect for the Irrawaddy dolphin, which they believe to be half human reincarnations of their ancestors. According to traditional Cambodian folktales, a fair and beautiful maiden cast herself into the Mekong to avoid a marriage to a giant magical serpent. The spirits, moved by her pure heart and exquisiteness, took pity and transformed her into the world’s first dolphin. The SE Asian Irrawaddy dolphins are different looking to their salt water cousins. They have the maiden’s human sized eyes and a wide upwards curved mouth. It gives them a look of perpetual amusement, a look much in common with the villagers of Kratie.

A local organisation, the Cambodian Rural Development Team (CRDT), is trying to work out ways to preserve the dwindling population. For many people in Kratie, it is an issue of culture and heritage. CRDT is trying to educate the local population so everything is done to try and preserve the dolphins and ensure they aren’t accidentally caught by fishermen. CRDT also is helping locals reduce their reliance on fishing by offering alternatives such as poultry farming.

The locals are happy that the Irrawaddy dolphins have put the town on the tourist map. Their beloved sacred creatures are still playing and swimming in the Mekong, helping to support the people who have always revered them.

To arrange a trip to Kratie to view the Irrawaddy dolphins please email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from Cambodia Life (Aug 08)

A new metered taxi firm has now arrived in Phnom Penh. Global Taxi has agreed a 20 year contract that will eventually see up to 300 taxis serving Phnom Penh.

Initial charges are set at 4000 Riel (approx USD 1) for the first kilometre, and every additional 200 meters will cost 400R (approx. 10 cents). The same amount will be charged for every 3 minutes of waiting. The metered taxis are seen as a blessing by many, rather than the persistent haggling over a journeys price with unlicensed and uninsured motor bike taxis and tuk-tuks.

Battambang is a city steeped in spirituality and superstition. Home to numerous temples, sacred sites, and shrines, visitors may find it difficult to choose which of these places to visit.

One of the holiest, and most scenic temples around Battambang town is Wat Phnom Sampeau, located on top of a mountain, about 20km from the city. Like any hilltop temple in Cambodia, the climb to the top is steep, hot, and lined with beggars of all ages, genders, and physical constitutions. After a long climb up, temple goers can relax at the small Buddhist temple, or the adjacent Chinese temple, decorated with eclectic statues of gods, tigers and dragons. Close by is the gruesome cave-site where the Khmer Rouge demonstrated the worst of their abilities. For a small donation a resident nun will give you some incense sticks to burn in memory of the victims. As you stroll down the winding pathway down the mountain, you can take in the commanding views of the countryside and the distant mountains.

As the saying goes, the journey can be as just as pleasing as the destination, and this is certainly true of Wat Ek Phnom, about 12km from Battambang. The ride to Wat Ek Phnom takes you along the western bank of the Sangker River. Along the banks are many small wooden houses set amidst lush, flowering bushes, cactuses, and coconut trees. After a pleasant 30 minute drive through the peaceful shady, riverside villages, you reach Wat Ek Phnom, which is situated in the midst of a clearing in the jungle-like foliage. The temple itself is an 11th century ruin built in the Angkorian style, which contains intricately carved lintels above the crumbling doorways. Beside the ruins is a modern temple of the same name, embellished with vivid depictions of Buddha’s life story.

At both Wat Phnom ampeau, and Wat Ek Phnom, you can take the opportunity to speak to the friendly monks, nuns, and locals who will no doubt give you some valuable insight into the deeply spiritual and superstitious nature of Battambang, and the people who live there.

If you would like to have a tour of Battambang please email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from The Advisor (17-23 July 08)

Years ago Phi Phi Island in Thailand was a secret that travellers kept to themselves, and it was a real expedition to reach. It took many years before the island was heavily developed. If you want to visit a tropical island like Phi Phi or Boracay in the Philippines before they became known by all and sundry, then head to Cambodia and check out Koh Rong Saloem.

Koh Rong Saloem is the largest of 22 islands off the coast of Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It offers a fantastic stretch of beach on its southwest, stretching about 5 km. It has fresh water resources on the island and a bustling fishing community on the southeast with basic supplies including fresh water, fish and crab. Currently it remains little visited and provides perfect secluded beaches and exclusive diving.

The island is much larger, and far more beautiful than the most of the famous Thai islands, and as yet there is almost no development on Koh Rong Saloem. However, that is about to dramatically change, as a Cambodian / Hong Kong partnership is looking to raise as much as $2 billion to develop a luxury resort. Koh Rong Saloem’s 10,000 hectares of white sand beaches, coconut trees, waterfalls, and forested hills will soon be the site of resorts, apartments, casinos, golf courses, polo fields and a new airport on the island. The developers claim that they are developing 4,500 hectares of beachfront land, and 5,000 hectares of urban development, making the island on a parallel with Koh Samui in Thailand.

If you want to see the island before it is developed, and be able to say “I was there before …” there are a few basic accommodation huts available. For more information please email: info@asia-adventures.com.

Edited from: Expat Advisory (19-8-08)

Anyone who has ever set foot within Cambodia’s capital of Phnom Penh will be familiar with the words ‘Russian Market’. It has its own little box to tick on the city’s must-see list. I’m even reminded of it when I’m shopping in London. All I need to do is pick up a t-shirt at H&M and read the Made In Cambodia label to be instantly transported to the smells and sounds that make up the tourists favourite market in Phnom Penh.

The popularity of this market does not rest solely at the feet of the strappy-sandaled tourists though. Its reputation as being the best place for clothes shopping rings true also for those who have decided to adopt this city as a hometown for an extended period of time. Phnom Penhhers drop in on a regular basis, as finding clothes that fit foreigners is no small feat around here. Yet size is not the only catnip-like powers this market wields over shoppers. The prices keep buyers shuffling past the stalls like some big garment-factory clothing safari.

Track the latest online discussions, more…Not a large market by any stretch of the word, it is worth knowing which bits not to miss when passing through. Saving time and ensuring the omissible are not missed is a clever approach when entering this labyrinth of garments. It quickly becomes apparent that the picking pool is no ocean and there is a limit to what is on offer when one sees the same designs in different stalls throughout. However, in the same way not all wines are alike, not all stalls are alike and it is worth knowing which ones are consistently good at receiving the best that the local garment factories have to offer. The tags on the items read like a roster in a classroom of labels: Tommy Hilfiger? ‘Here miss’ J.Crew? ‘Present’ Abercrombie? ‘Here’…H&M, GAP, Old Navy, they all available…

Stall 1118-1119 ‘PINK’ is always busy and shouldn’t be missed. They have a few knee length cotton dresses that are not widely available and denim hot pants- should one be that way inclined. Among the many known fashion tags that dangle off hangers in this stall, Apostrophe is a name to look out for as it has simple and chic designs that won’t leave one feeling like a human billboard for big name brands, something that can be tricky to avoid when shopping at the market. Gigantic polo players on horses don’t seduce their way into the wardrobes of all.

There is a row of stalls that runs from 1258 and ends up on a corner with an accumulated pile of stripes that is stall number 1245. The booths are small but form a great alley of t-shirts in cool shapes and colours. Another favourite market brand is Xhilaration, which I was never familiar with until moving to Cambodia. From blouses to t-shirts, they have great pieces. Always subject to change, the latest corner pile was an avalanche of striped long sleeved cotton cardigans that resembled a laundry pile in cartoon-land.

If long sleeved button-up shirts from The Gap tickle your fancy then head to stall 1319. There, on a shelf neatly folded one can find these shirts in every pattern imaginable. This place also has many trousers from big name brands, but in my experience the sizes go from tiny to gigantic with no option in the middle. However, they are all neatly displayed and the staff are both knowledgeable and helpful, so don’t hesitate to ask for assistance. Also worth mentioning are the dresses by label d’BY, their bold prints and wearable lengths may just be the answer to someone’s dress prayers out there…and as with all good shopping trips, the final stop is an iced-coffee. Head to the food section and seat yourself at Phnom Penh’s best iced coffee and indulge in bottomless glasses of caffeine delight.

For tours of Phnom Penh please email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Expat Advisory (23-7-08)

Tran Van Thanh removes fish from a net on a small boat in Tonle Sap, also known as the Great Lake, in Cambodia. He says he followed his father there from the southern province of An Giang in Vietnam when he was 10. Now almost 70 years old, he says he misses his hometown.

“Other people leave their home country and come back rich, but as for me, I don’t have the money to return just once to worship my ancestors,” Thanh said. “I don’t even know whether my children can afford to bury me when I die, maybe my body will be left to rot and feed the fish in the lake,” the old man said. Thanh is one of 7,000 living at a floating village on Tonle Sap in Pursat Province, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia.

There were about a thousand houses built from bamboo and most of the residents were Vietnamese, president of the Pursat Province’s Overseas Vietnamese Association, Huynh Luy, said. Luy said 95 percent of the population made their living fishing while the rest ran small food or clothing businesses on boats.

Although Tonle Sap is one of the most productive fisheries in the world, it is not easy for poor people to earn money there. Resident, Ly Minh Doi, said lives of fishermen like him rose and fell like the tides on Tonle Sap. In the last few months, many families had sold their houses and moved in search for work, only to return in the rainy season, which is good for fishing, he said. “That is our fate and we can’t change it no matter how hard we try,” said Doi. Nguyen Thi An, who has spent almost all of her life on the lake, said her family had returned home to An Giang Province only once. They decided, however, to return to Tonle Sap because fishing was the only job they could do, she said. Now an old woman, An couldn’t remember how many grandchildren she had, although she was certain that they were living somewhere on the lake. She said she never blamed her children for leaving her alone because they were all too poor to take care of her. Many fishermen can’t afford their own boat so they work for other fisherman. Ghet, for instance, works for the owner of a trawler and his main job is to dive into the lake to check the nets. The water is cold and he said he knew of two divers who had drowned, but he only earns about 10,000 riels (US$2.40) a night to buy food for his family. He doesn’t have a stable income because his boss doesn’t always need him.

He would rather work for himself but fishing permits cost 1 million riels ($240), which is beyond his reach. At sunrise fishermen start sailing their small boats back to the floating village, with dark circles under their eyes after a night on the lake. Le Minh Trung, a young man who comes from the southern Tay Ninh Province, said, “The lake was calm last night and I was able to catch more than 20 kilograms of tiny shrimps.” He would go to the local market and sell those shrimps for 12,000 riels ($2.90), enough to feed his family for two days, he said. Many times when the family had nothing to eat, Trung has wanted to take his wife and small child and move somewhere else. But with no money, he said he didn’t know where they could go. So it is that thousands of Vietnamese fishermen like Trung live day to day at the floating village in Cambodia.

For a trip to teh Tonle Sap floating villages email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Expat Advisory (23-7-08)

Golfing great Arnold Palmer recently confirmed his company will build a 36-hole golf course in Cambodia. Arnold Palmer Design Company had been retained to build the course at the new 1-billion-dollar resort development by the Sokha group at the former French colonial Bokor Hill Station Resort.

The Sokha Group’s Project Manager said, ‘He is the best in the US and we want the best golf course in Cambodia. The plan is for the course to cover 200 hectares with 36 holes, but we will start by opening an 18-hole course so we can assess and observe the conditions. Construction is due to begin in 2009′

Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen is perhaps the only world leader to list his golf scores on his personal website, and the Cambodian elite, as in most of Asia, is golf crazy. There is even a Korean-managed public putting range in the centre of the Cambodian Senate’s grounds.

Cambodia is also aggressively chasing the high-end tourist dollar, and golf courses have mushroomed across the country in the past five years as the country enjoys peace and economic stability.

Palmer, 78, is among the great golfers of all time, winning seven major championships during his career, which began in the 1950s, and being inducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame in 1974. His successful design company has designed 300 golf courses to date, according to his website, and prides itself on being in tune with the environment - an attractive trait for Bokor, which lies in a national park, around 200 kilometres from the capital.

Want to play golf in Cambodia? Email: info@asia-adventures.com

Not one hundred meters from the popular backpacker scene of Phnom Penh’s Lakeside district guesthouses, poor Khmer families live in an impoverished and extremely polluted environment. Lining the shores of the Boeng Kak lake are stilted houses perched overtop the water; the water itself covered with a layer of garbage and waste thick enough for a chicken to walk across without falling through. Bare-chested and barefoot children playfully crowd the streets while the adults gamble good-heartedly on a neighbors front stoop and women barbeque fish in aluminum troughs. Homes and shop fronts along the paved path that runs through the community are well kept and clean, but those further from the shore are not as easily maintained.

Access to these homes is possible only via bridges connecting them to land. Most of these bridges are in passable condition, despite being built and maintained with scrap wood and used nails, but some are in a state of constant and dangerous decrepit neglect. The small home of a family of seven is an unfortunate example of one of these.

Two weeks ago the bridge to their home was an obstacle course of loose planks, missing planks, gaping holes where some poor soul’s foot pushed through the rotten wood, and an entire three meter section that had completely collapsed into the water. In order to get to the door of the house, the family had to shuffle flush against the wall, gripping it for dear life and hoping the deceptively solid looking water surface could support more weight than that of a chicken.

A difficult task, especially after dark when the kids usually get home from selling books and which, needless to say, has caused more than a few accidents. Accidents which, given the blanket of trash on the surface and the fact that no one in the family can swim, could prove fatal. This bridge was crossed everyday without complaint and though consequences occurred, and not infrequently, they were bothered not to prevent.

But who is there to prevent?

New wood is expensive and at twenty-five dollars a month, the price they pay for seven people to live in a room not much larger than the one at my guesthouse, there isn’t much left over, and a new bridge is hardly seen as a necessity.

Some however, do see it as a necessity. Upon my arrival in Phnom Penh a friend and I became involved with a volunteer run school operating on the Lakeside called Gimme Shelter. Gimme Shelter is a school dedicated to education in the community for children and adults who want it and are willing to work in a co-operation. The aims of this organization are geared towards English language teaching, Aids education and prevention and general community development. It was through them that we met the kids and the family of the aforementioned home, and there that we decided to spearhead a project to repair or rebuild their bridge.

Funds were raised solely by the generosity of tourists in the Lakeside area and in the end, new supports, used wood, nails, labour and much appreciated celebratory beer cost no less than fifty dollars. For this we thank all those who made donations, you have helped to make a difference. We were equally ecstatic at the response of the people living in the slums to our arrival. Many were willing to contribute what they could toward our efforts, and though donations of money were essentially impossible for them, offers of their time, energy and expertise were very much welcomed.

In the two weeks time I’ve spent here, I’ve gathered that the Lakeside district holds a fairly ugly reputation in Phnom Penh; drugs, robberies, crime etc. I spent everyday of my stay here getting to know the people and families of the slums