The argument on the best diving in Cambodia is between three areas - Condor Reef, Virgin Reef and the Corner Bar. It really comes down to a matter of personal Scuba diving preferences.

In other words, do you like to see small stuff, big stuff or lots of stuff? Condor gets visited by whale sharks, Virgin Reef lives up to its name as being totally unsoiled and the Corner Bar is where all the cool fish hang out.

Condor Reef is the real deal adventure and can only be done when the conditions are perfect, hence the best bet is between April and May, as there’s absolutely no cover if a storm comes. The nearest sanctuary is Koh Rong and that’s a three hour ride or more if the seas are against you. The rewards can be spectacular though, as large pelagics including ‘walk-on-water sharks’ are seen there on almost every trip. A few centuries ago a Chinese Junk hit the reef and spewed Ming vases onto the sea floor - the complete vases have all since been recovered but shards of vase can still be found. At least Advanced Open Water (with good navigation skills) is advised as this site can have ripping currents.

Koh Tang, the home of Virgin Reef, will most likely be the future of diving in Cambodia as the coastal islands get more tourism. The trend will be to go further out to get that Robinson Crusoe end-of-the-world feel, and here you have two beautiful, deserted tropical islands surrounded by nothing but clear water reefs and blue ocean. The reefs here are productive with larger fish and the schools seem to be getting bigger. Turtles, dolphins, sail fish, tuna, large cobias and other pelagics are still seen today on a somewhat regular basis and if Cambodia ever assigns a real Marine Protected Area (MPA) it is hoped this is where it will be rather than at Koh Rong.

Today the vast majority of diving and dive courses takes place in the Koh Rong group of islands, 14 miles off the coast of Sihanoukville, with the main dive sites being on Koh Krong and Koh Rong Samleom. The Corner Bar sees by far the most divers in a season, featuring plentiful anemones, huge schools of blue-lined snapper plus great and yellowtail barracudas. You’ll also find large elephant ear corals and massive bommies covered with multicoloured Christmas tree worms to look under for interesting things like blue spotted rays, puffer fish and, for macro lovers, dart like pipe fish, as well as several species of colourful nudibranchs. This spot was named after a popular Sihanoukville drinking establishment that has seen a lot of fish stories, on-gassing and re-hydration by the local dive professionals over the years.

So the question still remains, given the choice which is the best? As a notorious dive junkie I’m forced to say, all of them of course!

For more information on diving in Cambodia email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from the Cambodia Pocket Guide Feb 08