From sleepy, down-at-heel beachfront town to a modern resort destination, Kep is on the move and, hopefully, in the right direction.

Once a playground for the well-heeled citizens of pre-war Cambodia, the seaside resort of Kep sur Mer is experiencing a development boom that will either confirm its place as Cambodia’s premier holiday destination or turn it into a naff holiday camp to be avoided at all costs.

Back in the 1930s and up to the 1960s, it must have been the place to visit. Drive into town along its coastal, tree-lined boulevards and you can imagine what a fine time everyone must have been having. In hose days its stunning French villas and Vann Molyvann art-deco concrete houses looked out over amazing views of the Gulf of Vietnam and beyond. Famous for its crab, Kep is surrounded by gloriously lush hills that funnel soothing ocean breezes into your face. In Cambodia’s heyday, life was easy and weekends were for relaxing with the family.

The onset of the Khmer Rouge reign of terror, however, undid it all in a flash, destroying the town and razing most of its beautiful architecture. Few houses survived and those that did are pockmarked with bullet holes. Almost overnight Kep became a Khmer Rouge stronghold and a forgotten backwater. Fast forward to a couple of years ago and it was recommended in the Lonely Planet guide as a quiet, if somewhat boring diversion from many of the other Cambodian destinations.

In 2006 there were only a few places to stay and only a handful of travellers. I ate glorious crab, took a boat to Koh Tonsay, and explored the dirt tracks at the base of the hills that are the backdrop to the town. My gorgeous bungalow overlooking the bay cost $8 and beer was 50c.

Kep 2008: you can now spend up to several hundred dollars for a night at the glorious Knai Bang Chatt resort or as little as $20 at places such as Vanna Bungalows or Kep Lodge. Even though the once rustic crab shacks are being renovated, thankfully the tasty crawler is still cheap, plus power blackouts are almost a thing of the past.

The sleepy Kep of old is pretty well gone forever, however during the week it is still very quiet and a delightful place to relax.

To enjoy a few days exploring Kep email Asia Adventures: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from the Cambodia Pocket Guide (May – July 08)