Greens and blues abound in Ratanakiri, which offers forests and lakes that are home to a rural lifestyle that delights the eye. The scenery here differs greatly from the rest of Cambodia. Red dirt, lush forests and blue lakes make it a beautiful and colourful province to visit and numerous hilltribes add cultural diversity.

The banks of Kansaing Lake within the provincial capital of Banlung is a great place to watch local fishermen. In town you can wander through the market and see the many products from the forest on sale, but if you plan to buy, please be aware that many of the plant and animal species hunted in the area are endangered, so don’t support the hunter/scavengers by buying skins or herbal medicines. Among the photogenic sights on the street are the mounds of sorted and drying produce. Cashew nuts and rubber are two of the biggest industries in the province but, unfortunately for the environment and local hilltribes, so are logging and mining.

Out of town, nature’s bounty is on show. Yeak Loam is a circular volcanic lake 5km from Banlung. The water is crystal clear, deep and beautiful to swim in. There is also a 2.5km track around the lake and en route you will find local crafts on offer, some great swimming spots and amazing views. Waterfalls are plentiful and many can be explored on a half-day trip. The highest in the area is Ou’Sensranoh at 18 metres. Cha Ung is not only a great place for a dip but also offers a vantage point behind the falls to see the world from a different angle.

Forty five kilometres from the capital is Virachay National Park, a great place for trekking and birdwatching. Along the way you are likely to see people from various hilltribes, often with baskets strapped to their backs as they collect produce from the forest. Many of them still wear traditional costumes. Brau women often have tattooed faces and Krung women generally wear only a sarong and nothing on their upper bodies. It is also common to see men and women smoking pipes. The men will often be seen along the roadside carrying crossbows and arrows they use for hunting. They gather poison from colourful forest frogs that excrete the liquid from their skins; the hunter simply wipes the arrow tip across the frog’s back.

If you get the chance, be sure to try the local wine. Brewed in a large clay jug, the concoction comprises rice husks and herbs. The mix is packed down tight and bamboo straws are pushed to the bottom. Water is added and the mix is then left to ferment; the longer you leave it, the stronger it gets. Add too much water, though, and the alcohol loses its strength. Traditionally the jugs are large and the wine is drunk through bamboo pipes, but this is not for the faint-hearted.

For more information on tours to Ratanakiri email: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from: Cambodia Pocket Guide (Aug-Oct 08)