Just two hours away from Phnom Penh, in Kampong Speu province, lies Kirirom National Park, a thickly wooded mountain retreat long sought out for its peace, solitude, nature and respite from the oppressive heat of low-lying cities and towns. Boasting 35 hectares of protected land in the rugged Elephant Mountains, Kirirom possesses a landscape that is unique to the rest of Cambodia, with pine trees towering over the leafy slopes and cool breezes drifting across crystal lakes.

The name Kirirom means “mountain of joy", a name bestowed by former King Norodom Sihanouk, who was no stranger to the mountain’s beguiling charms. During the 1960s one of the King’s favourite summer getaways was his now deserted mansion at the summit.

Close to the abandoned retreat is a visitor’s centre, open only on weekends and managed with support from Mlup Baitong, an environmental NGO, as well the Ministry of Environment. Vendors sell a variety of drinks and snacks next to the visitor’s centre, including grilled fish, sticky rice with sweet potato and coconut, and, oddly enough, traditional Khmer remedies.

Close by is a small nature trail leading down to the secluded lake. The walk takes about 10 minutes and trekkers are rewarded at the bottom with access to the glassy blue body of water and near total seclusion amid the tall grass and gently swaying pine trees. Paths around the lake end up at either a cluster of small bamboo picnic huts sitting in a verdant patch of grass on the edge of the lake, or the towering stupa of Wat Chas, otherwise known as Old Wat, overlooking a bubbling stream.

One of Kirirom’s most popular attractions is the Tea Farm Waterfall, known in Khmer as teuk chreus jom ka tai. Located 700 metres from the main road, the waterfall can be reached by a steep set of stone stairs built into the side of the hill. Thatch and bamboo picnic huts balance precariously on the hillside, looking down onto the small waterfall, which tumbles noisily over the slick black rocks.

As well as a guethouse and resort more down-to-earth accommodation can be found at the Chambok Community-Based Ecotourism site, located at the base of the mountain, down a rich red dirt road and surrounded by fields of mango and jackfruit trees just 10 kilometres from the park’s entrance. Visitors can stay at the home of a local villager and enjoy traditional food. Guided treks to a 40-metre waterfall are also available, as are ox cart rides, trips to a bat cave, bicycle rentals and traditional Khmer dance performances. All revenues go directly to the villagers, and are used in part to protect and conserve the area’s natural resources.

For visits to Kirirom National Park & Chambok contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from the Phnom Penh Post (22-5-09)