People may not know it yet, but Cambodia’s capital is geared towards cyclists.

Phnom Penh is one of those cities that people either love or hate. I, for one, love it – but there are things about it that get to me. The availability and variety of food, the relaxed feel to the people, the character of the architecture and a charm that is hard to put a finger on are all things that endear this city to me. The over-abundance of girlie bars, noise pollution, traffic and the lack of good public open spaces are things that at times tip my feelings in the other direction.
One thing I love is that I can get on a bicycle, and after 15 minutes of pedaling, be out of the city. In some directions, after 30 minutes of pedaling, I can be in the countryside. The city is also, in some respects, cyclist-friendly. It’s flat, there are usually security guards to watch your bike when you go into a supermarket or bank, and the weather is generally quite predictable.

If we ignore for a minute the fact that the majority of Cambodians regard bicycles as transport for the poor, the “cyclistisation” of Phnom Penh is a shoe-in because you have to travel at least 60km to find a hill. Also, there isn’t much of an issue with parking and a quality lock will deter most thieves.

So what would be the biggest barrier preventing this city from claiming its cyclist-friendly credentials? One word: traffic. As the majority of newcomers to the capital will tell you, cycling takes some getting used to because of the “do whatever you like, but if you crash into someone you have to cough up some cash” system.

People arriving here from developed countries stare in disbelief at the chaos of motos, cyclos, tuk-tuks, cars, coaches and lorries that narrowly miss pile-ups at just about every intersection. One-way streets become two-way, pavements are regarded as short cuts and traffic lights are ignored. In the middle of this mayhem is the cyclist, who is regarded – if at all – as a third-class citizen by many – and a target by some.

Recreational cycling was an alien concept only a few years ago. It has now started to take hold in a small way in the capital. For example, when the first Angkor Bike Race was held a few years ago, there were only a few Cambodian competitors. In 2009, the fourth annual race was held and at least one-third of the participants were Cambodian.

Another good sign for the future is the way the wealthier section of the Khmer community is taking on cycling as a pastime activity. What starts as a health kick could grow into a trend and become an everyday fact of life in next to no time.

A public bike hire scheme or free bike loan system similar to the Green Bangkok concept is possibly a little far-fetched at present, but given the availability of motorcycle parking that can double as bike parking, Phnom Penh is already set up for cyclists, it just doesn’t know it.

For cycling tours of Cambodia contact: info@asia-adventures.com

Edited from SE Asia Globle (24-6-10)